PARIS FASHION WEEK (FALL 2022)

Off-White fw22

Virgil Abloh, the first black man to be the creative director for Louis Vuitton, a multi dimensional creature director for his own label, architect, DJ, and amplifier for the voices of the black community.

This Off-White show felt more like a celebration of Virgils life rather than a tribute to the late creative. It was nice to see his signature codes while encompassing something new to the brand. There were many signatures of Abloh that I loved seeing. From the elevated hoodies to the quotes that Abloh was most known for it was nice to see his branding which ended up being his biggest statement. My favorite was the white flag stating, “Question Everything.”

Additionally, for this fall 2022 collection there was node back to his streetwear codes while also presenting a new high fashion couture label without the haute couture label. The show label wrote, “designed by Virgil and completed by the creative teams and collaborators with whom he worked.” It’s clear that what Virgil has created at Off-White will forever live on even without him here.

Acne Studios fw22

Acne studios has once again out done themselves with this collection and I am as obsessed with this one as I was with their spring/ summer 2022 collection. This collection felt fun and cool. I loved the different denim pieces which was sort of a call back to Acne Studios heritage with denim. I loved this collection and their use of denim. There were upcycled patched denim paper bag skirts, and denim dresses, which were in the silhouette of crinoline, which was beautifully crafted. I felt the denim used was not over done, and instead looked very cool and fresh. Especially the opening look with the red dyed denim skirt, which I need in my wardrobe now, please and thank you. Another thing I loved about this collection was the coats. I love a good coat and Acne studios can do no wrong when it comes to making a cute coat. My favorite if I had to choose would be look twenty five. I love how the sleeves of the coat open up to show sleeves of the dres underneath. As well as the double breasted detailing with the big buckle belt. Honestly, I need this whole look, it’s just too good.

Overall this collection was excellent and I enjoyed it very very much. But like I said before I’m a sucker for anything Acne Studios.

Loewe fw22

Art. That’s the first word that comes to mind when discussing Loewe Fall 2022. This collection felt like I was watching an art exhibition come to life on the bodies of models walking down the runway. The usage of balloons in this collection, I’m blown away, no pun intended. This collection reflected illogicality in such an artful way that it sort of makes logical sense for Loewe to do this in the first place.

This collection for me reflected surrealism, which developed in Europe after the end of World War I. During this movement artists depicted unnerving, illogical scenes and developed techniques to allow the unconscious mind to express itself. This surrealist approach that Jonathan Anderson presented for Loewe in the use of balloons was very exuberant in which it exceeded the bounds of logicality and how the clothes were presented in a way that felt dream-like. It was a beautiful visual of Anderson’s creativity and genius

Coperni fw22

The hoodie lappeled blazers, overcoats, and mini sheer sparkled dresses were my favorite thing about this collection. The IT model cast was absolutely gorgeous as they strutted down the runway effortlessly while showing off the different tailoring techniques and textiles. The different takes on tailoring we’re my favorite and my favorite were the disassembled jackets and the hooded pieces. The tailoring for this collection was amazing and I definitely think we will be seeing more of it as it was shown on the runway for Viktor and Rolf’s spring 2022 couture collection.

In addition, I loved the accessories for this collection, in particular the bags. The bags were exceptionally cool and interesting to look at. The bags appeared to be in blown glass that modded into an aft piece themselves. My favorite was the blue and clear bag with the Devil ears. I felt this was witty and astonishing in an artful way.

Coperni Fall 2022 collection was amazing craftsmanship, cleverness and a bit comical, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Balmain fw22

Body armor, tactical gear, protective wear, and compression pads, that is what this Fall 2022 collection for Balmain consisted of. This sort of thing has been appearing on the runway, as it did for Dior so it’s not surprising to see it here.

Much of the collection was of the same look, different colors and variations which liked however it did somewhat become repetitive but once a different look appeared I was back up again. Some of my favorite looks for this collection was looks ninty seven and ninty eight. I loved loved the screen printed body silhouette onto the blazer and the dress. It felt like a node to Jean Paul Gaultier’s body screen printed suit from his 1996 spring/ summer collection titled “Cyberbaba”.

I loved the collection, however I do think it could have been cut down a tad bit as I think 107 looks is a lot to present and can somewhat feel overwhelming. However, amidst this, the collection was amazing and many of the pieces were breathtaking to look at.

Botter fw22

Botter, Fall 2022, ‘Caribbean Couture’, that is exactly what this collection embodies. With its exuberance color palette, abundant style, and inventiveness, Botter has presented a well seasoned fall 2022 collection for their first Paris fashion week.

The use of the beads made from recycled plastic, as different motifs for the looks was absolutely beautiful to see. Many of the beads were used as fringing for the front of the dress in look eight, they were also weaved into an argyle motif which I loved personally. I especially loved how the bright colors represented the tropical lands of the Caribbean and the coral beds and tropical fish associated with it. I felt it brought the Caribbean culture to life.

Valentino fw22

Pink, Pink, Pink, and more Pink. I absolutely loved it and kind of wished the whole collection was pink but hey that’s just me.

I loved the knitwear, it was probably my most favorite thing out the whole collection. Also I found it interesting how the coats had double shoulders. It felt perfectly placed as it didn’t make the coat look out of proportion or too big, it was absolutely perfect and I need it. Another thing that I have began to notice is the emergence of boiler suits. We saw in Prada 2022 fall collection and Missoni, and now here for Valentino. Truthfully I myself am not a fan of the boiler suit as I think at times it can look ill fitting but it’s just something that I have observed with recent shows.

Honestly, I think this Valentino fall 2022 ready to wear collection is one of the best that I have seen this far. I loved the different elements that were intertwined however, like the Balmain show, I do think it was a bit too long and some of the pieces did feel a bit questionable but overall it was a lovely show.

Balenciaga fw22

First off I want to start with mentioning some of the looks that I loved seeing walk down the blizzard runway. I always love a good Balck look and with the start of the show that was mostly presented which I didn’t mind. However, as the show gradually continued there were looks that were more colorful and played on different silhouettes and patterns. Such as look twenty one with the yellow all over printed flower bodysuit and dress, in addition to the blue finale dress.

In the midst of tragedy and big losses in the world, fashion can feel like the last thing anybody wants to discuss, however I think it can also be a place to bring awareness to these tragedies. In Balenciaga’s show notes Demna speaks about almost contemplating whether or not he should cancel the show. However, of course he did not and instead used his platform to bring awareness to what is happening within Ukraine. In Balenciaga’s show notes Demna talks about his childhood trauma, being from a country called Georgia, which he and his family had to flee due to civil war like what the Ukrainians are facing at this present time. This show felt like a tribute to Ukraine and the Ukrainian people as Demna presents on the runway many different models carrying what looks like trash bags and holding onto a single towel over their backs as that is what Ukrainians are having to do as the flee for their lives with one single bag.

Louis Vuitton fw22

With HoYeon Jung opening the Louis Vuitton show right off the bat off her win at the SAG awards, she is getting back in her modeling bag. Louis Vuitton, fall 2022 collection was made of amazing proportions that I myself thought wasn't ill fitting. The oversized shaping and andogynous tailoring is something that was seen a lot throughout the collection, which was my absolute favorite.

In addition, I loved that this collection is based on young adulthood, which Ghesquière called the collection “an excursion into a perceptible, fleeting, and decisive moment when everything comes to the fore, in all its innocence and insight. The impermanence and beautiful volatility of adolescence.” Within this collection there was a sense of youthfulness and youthful experimentation that I thought was presented perfectly within the oversized jackets, chunky sweaters and oversized pants. The shapes and the silhouettes felt free which presents the youthfulness of young adulthood at its finest.

Miu Miu fw22

If it ain't broke, dont fix it. Miu Miu once again has given us the micro mini skirt in new variations that this latest fall 2022 collection feels like a sequel to last spring’s collection, which is famously known by all as it graces every single editorial put out currently. I mean at this point who hasn't had the micro mini Miu Miu set on at this point. I’m honestly just waiting for my turn.

Over the course of the past few months now Miu Miu besides Balenciaga has made an incredible impact on fashion. Miuccia Prada’s impact is notably influential as we see other designers showcase the synonymous silhouette of the Miu Miu girl. An oversized coat worn over a mini or evening skirt. It's clear that Miuccia Prada’s influence is just taking effect as she reiterates that influence in this fall 2022 collection, which is absolutely incredible as the last. The same themes appear on the runway in new variations this season. There's stained leather, faux fur lapels, shearling, which has been very popular this season. With different fashion trends surfacing upon us it’s not uncommon to see them translated within collections and with this latest collection comes the influence of ballet dancers. More specifically ballet flats that most of the models were sporting walking down the runway.

In addition, this collection is more gender neutral, demonstrating the almost bare silhouette with traditionally masculine physiques. With the return of Miu Miu men, which debuted in 1999 and discarded in 2008, it’s not far-fetched that the line is making its comeback. In the day and age of nostalgia and the Y2K trends making it’s ways around fashion currently, Miu Miu menswear is officially back on the map. And, with the return of Miu Miu menswear, there is more focus on gender neutral clothing. It works both ways as both women and men can take on this silhouette in a rather slender physique, which as we know is up for discussion when it comes to body inclusivity.

With Miu Miu’s latest editorial shoot with Paloma Elsesser for I-D “Out of Body” issue, inclusivity and body positivity is being talked about even more and with the news that Miu Miu had to make a custom micro set for Paloma as they did not already have her size made was a slap in the face of inclusivity. And rather felt performative by many. If you're going to disrupt the archaic office wear with micro mini skirts, the least that can be done is make them in all sizes that includes everyone, not just the conventionally slender physiques.

Overall, this Miu Miu collection was rather cute and showed Miuccia Prada’s impact and influence, however there needs to be inclusion pushed more, especially in these types of spaces where influence is rather easy to conquer when you have the means to do so.