LONDON FASHION WEEK (FALL 2022)

Simone Rocha fw22

Through the lore of the dark loom that always seems to filter through Simone Rocha’s clothes this latest fall 2022 collection is just that. This collection takes inspiration from an old Irish fable called the “Children of Lir”. In this tale the children become swans for nine hundred years, across three different lakes. And when they come back to human form, they pass away. This particular tale is from the pst Christianisation period that mixes elements of magic and messaging of Christian faith bringing freedom from suffering. Ultimately this tale was translated beautifully throughout the collection.

From the embroidery of the two paired swans on the semi sheer tabard, the buoyancy of the skirts and the balaclavas embellished in crystals making the models almost lol like birds, this collection was a tale of tales that was cutely odd in a Simone Rocha type of way.

I love that as Simone Rocha is telling this old Irish tale she is still sticking to her own tale with her biker jackets, voluminous coats, big skirts, transparent voile lace-trimmed dresses layered over other dresses and the chunky platform shoes that were spotted with many of the looks.

This collection was absolutely stunning and something out of the ordinary which I loved. It was satisfyingly strange but astounding.

16 Arlington fw22

16.Arlington I had just discovered the brand just last year and with the news back in November of the passing of one half of 16.arlington, Federica “Kikka” Cavenati, it was very sad to hear the news and I myself thought that the brand would take some time and step back during this fashion season. However, with the gracious and admirable Marco Capaldo, he has proven that he is determined to keep 16.arlignton life alive and well lit. In honor of Federica “Kikka” Cavenati, this fall 2022 collection is the momentum that kept Capaldo determined as he maintained an unbreakable bond with creativity. With 16.arlignton’s brand being known for its exuberance and dance floor ready sequins dresses I was looking forward to see what Capaldo would present for this new collection just after the passing of Cavenati.

Capaldo took his morning process and turned it into something so beautiful and magical. With Swarovski crystals appearing on the edges of blazers and floor length gowns, to the subtle shimmering of skirts, the crystals almost acted as tears marked by Capaldo. I also loved how the feathers, which are familiar with the brand, were dampened to mimic the wet look effect which I think was beautifully crafted and showcased Capaldo’s emotions when creating this collection.

This collection was very light toned and has hints of 90s minimalism, even down to the makeup which was very light and frost like.

This collection as a whole was very beautiful and Capaldo executed it beautifully. It served as a testament to Capaldo and Cavenati’s love for fashion and their special dynamic that will forever live on. This Fall 2022 collection was an absolutely stunning tribute that couldn’t be done any other way.

Nensi Dojaka fw22

Since late 2019 early 2020, up until now I have always been a fan of Nensi Dojaka’s work and what she creates. So when she won the LVMH prize I was not surprised. Her work has always spoken for itself, she is radiant with a hint of subtle eroticism that I think really makes her and her brand more discerning than likely others. She has a way of taking the female body and capturing it in such a beautiful, well crafted way. So when this collection appeared on the runway I was very pleased to see her extend this in such a prolific way.

This collection, like her others, is the capturing of a woman's body in many different forms and shapes. From curvy to standard model types, Dojaka once again proved that she is an amazing designer.

What I loved the most with this collection was her mix of her lingerie aesthetics with tailored suit pants and jackets, in addition to a combination of knits and cut out bras and array of straps. It is very reminiscent of Dojaka's distinctive look of complex stay of sheer, straps and cut out bras. It was nice to see her conquer anew. There were leather pieces which I absolutely loved. The leather skirt in look six worn by model Mila Van Der Horst, with the side cutouts and straps was absolutely gorgeous and I would love it for myself. In addition, I liked that Dojaka incorporated puffer jackets as it is something material wise that she has never presented so it was nice to see take on padded fabrics, as well as knits. I love knitwear and I especially love it when it’s made by Nensi Dojaka.

I think her incorporating these new styles and materials speaks into her longevity as a brand itself. Dojaka is in demand and I think being able to show different facets of your creativity is something that simply makes me believe she will be here for a long time to come.