HAUTE COUTOURE (FALL 2022)
- Taneya
- Jun 9, 2022
- 4 min read
Updated: Sep 24, 2022
THE ART OF COUTURE
Schiaparelli Couture 2022 collection, presented by Daniel Rosenberry
Daniel Rosenberry, creative director of the house of Sciaparelli has taken the Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli to a whole new but familiar dimension of the brilliant house of design, art, and surrealism.
Ever since Daniel Rosenberry has taken the creative role as the creative director of Schiaparelli back in 2019, he has proven his artistic abilities can form into a surrealist world of volume, color, and extravagance. With Schiaparelli’s latest 2022 couture collection Rosenberry evokes these artistic abilities with a hint of rapture. From the bustles, puffy silhouettes, embecable embroidery, gigot sleeves, and over the top hats, ‘80s nostalgia is upon us.
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This collection truly evoked the originator herself, Elsa Schiaparelli and what she would have worn during her time. It is evident that she is the focal point of this latest 2022 couture collection. For example, many of the looks shown on the runway looked to be inspired by Elsa’s childhood stories where she discussed in her 1954 “Shocking Life” memoir, how she would scatter flower seeds in her ears because she saw herself as plain looking. In the memoir she states, “To have a face covered with flowers like a heavenly garland would indeed be a wonderful thing!...And if she could make flowers spread all over her face she would be the only woman of her kind in the whole world”. And matter of factly that is exactly what Schiaparelli is within the fashion world, her own kind.
In addition, Rosenberry also referenced the holding of garments, which of course is not a new thing, however I for one love to see on the runway as I believe it brings more grandeur to the garment itself. Here above we see Elsa Schaparelli holding a garment in 1937 and Schaiparelli by Roseberry fall 2022 couture.
Elsa Schaiparelli was able to create a world of her own that is singular and unique to her. Its amazing to see how that uniqueness has influenced fashion and has become ingrained strongly into the world of surrealist fashion. Taking a look at Daniel Rosenberry’w work for Schiaparelli, he has taken this uniqueness and has shown from past collections up until this latest collection that yes he taken references fro Yves Saint Laurent, and or Thierry Mugler, and show how influential their work is, but at the same time again reference Elsa Schaiaparelli and her influence on fashion as he is just simply referencing these other designers influence, Elsa Schaiparelli, which in turn makes this haute couture show even more polarizing and elaborate.
WHEN TWO WORLDS COLLIDE
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture 2022 collection, presented by Oliver Rousteing:
It is haute couture week and Oliver Rousteing, creative director of the house of Balmain has geared up to give us fashion lovers the collaboration of couture history.
A Deep Dive into the world of house codes & inspiration.
Off the bat the show starts with a major reference to Jean Paul Gaultuer spring 1994 collection, “Les Tatouages”. Looks one through ten referenced the heavily known spring 1994 collection in the form of menswear, which Olover stated in Vogue, he considers the tattoo collection of 1994 “a celebration of diversity”. The show then breaks into womenswear with straight forward references to Madonna’s iconic cone bra, Gaultier's use of corsetry, repurposed denim, breton fisherman sweaters and my most favorite the Jean Paul Gaulier Le Male fragrance bottle turned into a dress. Among many of the looks were outrageous teetering platform heels inspired by the iconic Jean Paul Gaultier in cans used for many of his fragrances.
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Within this collection there was a meticulous eye for detail which for one makes the garment and the entire piece even more special. As Oliver has stated this collection is a love letter to Gaultier and with attention to detail for some of the garments and accessories that’s exactly what the collection felt like.
In looks 31, 46, and 55, it is very clear that Oliver Rousteing is paying homage to Gaultier craftsmanship and dressmakers. In look 31 the garment appears as a dressmaker's tape measure, while look 55 appears in a heart shaped pin cushion bodice that has T-pins sprouting out of it.
Oliver revisited many of Gaultiers looks and reinterpreted them in a new and exciting way whilst still paying homage to the fashion house. Oliver revisited Gaultier merlot stripes, which spread in the form of an oversized Breton sweater which then morphed into a Watteau train in the back. In addition Rousting revisited legendary works of Madame Gres, who is a dressmaking genius for Gaultier. Oliver was able to take liquid like draperies of her work and put his own twist to it by creating a meticulous corseted pink sweatshirt that bloomed into an opera coat in the back and draped into a siren skirt in the front.
This Jean Paul Gaultier 2022 couture collection by Oliver Rousting was an amazing opportunity to not only pay homage to an amazing fashion house, but also to bring in a new world of design and personality which makes for two worlds colliding a celebratory event to be seen and heard about.
FASHION & CINEMA BECOME ONE
Maison Margiela 2022 collection, presented by John Galliano:
The house of Maison Margiela has always stuck to their meticulous style of fashion. Always pushing the boundary of the norm whilst still continuing to give a show.
A Deep Dive into the combining worlds of fashion & cinema
Is the house of Maison Margiela changing how we view fashion shows? It absolutely seems that way with its latest 2022 collection, presented by John Galliano. Both worlds of cinema and fashion collide to present a masterful show of theatrics and fashion.
Within this collection there is a heavy theme of American western cinema as the show presents a movie whilst showing the collection in a theatrical way with the models acting out the film being played in the background. The show set itself felt haunting whilst incorporating the clothing to foreshadow each character within the story. As seen the cowboys with guns coming bustling through with sandstorm weather coats and darker, haunting colors which possibly symbolizes their violent nature.
This ultimatley feels like a form of costume design in the form of haute couture which I for one love to see as it brings a new outlook on how we view fashion and are presented with them.
