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CASE STUDY: HOW TOM FORD SAVED GUCCI

  • Writer: Taneya
    Taneya
  • Aug 30, 2021
  • 4 min read

Updated: Sep 23, 2022

Gucci, an Italian high fashion label founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. It is the oldest Italian fashion brand still operating today. Like many other fashion brands Gucci has had its success as it was once a luggage manufacturer that produced luxury goods as it catered towards the more privileged upper classes. As time went on and the brand progressed and flourished through the United States throughout the 50s the brand began its golden era. Many celebrities and influential people began to wear the brand such as Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, and Jackie Kennedy, who famously has a bag named after her. During this time Gucci was booming with its success in the states as well other parts of the world, for Gucci things were looking prosperous.



Jan Dunning photographed by Mario Testino for Gucci ss96 campaign


However, with success comes downfalls that can be seen as hard to come back from, especially for a brand that is as big as Gucci. In the 70s Gucci took to the East putting their stamp in Tokyo and Hong Kong. As Gucci's golden era began to dwindle down during the late eighties they appointed Dawn Mello, who was the president of Bergdorf Goodman, as creative director in 1989. When Mello was appointed she reduced both the number of stores and the number of products that were being sold by Gucci to upkeep its exclusivity and prestige amongst the upper class and its customers. In 1990 she brought along Richard Lambertson as design director, Neil Barret as menswear designer, and Tom Ford as womens ready to wear designer.


Ultimately, Mello, Lambertson, and Barrett were not received well by the public for their designs thus causing Mello to return back to Bergdorfs in 1994. While Tom Ford quickly rose to importance as he designed mens wear, ready to wear fragrances, and shoes.


Gucci fw96

Gucci ss99


In the fashion industry there are very few designers that are as prominent as Tom Ford when he worked at Gucci from 1994 to 2004. During his time at the Gucci fashion house he made himself very prominent in the fashion scene along the likes of John Galliano for Dior, Martin Margelia for Maison Martin margelia, Gianni Versace for Versace, lee at Alexander McQueen, and so forth during mid to late 90s. Conclusively , it is agreeable that Tom Ford did in fact save Gucci and is ultimately celebrated for Ford to be known as Gucci’s savior. After Mello’s departure Ford became the creative director of Gucci thus cultivating the brand to success. With Ford’s rise to success Gucci’s annual sales grew to 3 billion dollars due to Ford’s ability to implement sex appeal into the brand with its controversial aesthetic with their slinky slip dresses and knife like stilletos. In contrast to the minimalist trends of the 90s,In contrast to the minimalist trends of the 90s, Tom Ford’s Gucci stuck out and the consumers loved it which in turn made Tom Ford very dependable for Gucci as he brought in many consumers who were awaiting the next collection so they could get a piece of Tom Ford’s Gucci.



Gucci fw96


In the 1990s Tom Ford presented a sequence of collections that still stand the test of times, such as the famous white dress with provocative cut outs in 1995 which continued in the next year in 1996, followed with the sleek and sexy outfits for women as well as sleek suits and hip hugging trousers for men. On and off the runway Gucci permeated sensuality as well seductiveness which definitely helped progress the brand. With Ford’s rise to success like Mello he brought along others for the ride. With him he brought along Carine as his go to stylist and Mario Testino as he preferred to shoot ad campaigns with him on many occasions. Together they trailblazer the fashion world with their high fashion advertising and styling of clothing. Tom Ford in collaboration with Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld produced provocative scandalous ad campaigns that earned Ford the title of provocateur. With these ads came heavy criticism however that did not stop Gucci or For as the ads proved to be very effective and sales boosted even higher. Ford’s role at Gucci proved to be profitable as the house had foreseen their second golden era. However, with success comes downfall.




Tom Ford is more than just a designer for Gucci and was looked up to become the CEO of the brand 2006, however Ford ultimately ended up leaving the brand in 2004 due to conglomerate business not being fulfilled. However, despite all of that Tom Ford's legacy in the fashion industry is without a doubt inspiring and cultivating. Without Tom Ford there would be no Gucci that we know of today which imbued sexiness into the brand. With the help of Ford’s cultivating designs for the house of Gucci he served as the marker for other creatives to come into industry with powerful, jaw dropping, awe inspiring designs that can do so much more than just designing. From directors to designers and marketers, anyone is not only creative but also multifaceted. Nothing can erase the era of Tom Ford’s Gucci.

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